I have lived in the Stamford area for quite a few years now, including a period of living in the town itself. It is a very beautiful town with more listed buildings than any town in the country, reputedly. It attracts a lot of tourists. “The George Hotel ” is a local (and very expensive) institution, the town’s equivalent of the Ritz. And there’s Burghley House and the Burghley Horse Trials. It is a congenial place to live, and attracts a lot of tourists.

The town has a thriving Tourist Information Centre in its equally thriving Arts Centre. There is no end of literature about the town. Amongst its many claims to fame are its five mediaeval churches plus another Victorian faux-gothic one that has been converted into shops. As you approach the town from the eastbound A43 you are presented with the unique site of six church towers rising above the (on a nice day) luminous limestone town. There can be few, if any, better townscapes in England. The town produces its own leaflets about the churches and many tourists are keen to “do the tour”.

The irony is that, from the point of view of the informed church crawler, the Stamford churches are not at all exceptional. St Martin’s has one of the noblest Early English towers in England - the very archetype of the broach spired tower that punctuates the landscapes of Rutland and South Lincolnshire. All Saints in its iconic setting in Stamford’s Sheep Market area has good Early English blind arcading and a fine west tower with fine frieze carvings. St Mary’s has some roof angels. All the Stamford churches have points of interest. For the casual tourist it is as good Church Trail as you can find. And that, I am afraid, is not saying much! If you are a church aficionado, then you have to travel a little way out of the town and, remarkably, you do not have to travel very far.

So, I have out together a Stamford Area Church Trail that excludes Stamford. I will leave the TIC to take care of Stamford. If you are in Stamford, these are the churches that will really excite you - I hope. By the way, remarkably this trail takes you into four different counties. Stamford is to counties what Crewe is to railways.

Purple boxes denote churches close to Stamford. Blue boxes are churches that will thrill you if you feel like venturing just a little further. I am going to start with the best of them all at Tickencote and follow a clockwise course.

Tickencote. 3.5 Miles, 10 mins from Stamford. OPEN

Here you will find England’s finest Norman chancel arch with five orders of decoration. An astonishing sight within a tiny much-restored Norman fabric. The chancel is a mixture of Norman and restored Norman with a rare sexpartite vault. There is a Norman font into the bargain.

This is the area’s must-see church, the one I take all my guests to. Now managed by the Churches Conservation Trust. No facilities in this tiny hamlet.

Little Casterton. 2.5 Miles. 7 mins from Stamford. Normally LOCKED.

I include this little church because it is so close to Ryhall and Tickencote. Plenty of Norman and Early English fragments. There is actually quite a lot of interest inside - and do look for the “Little Casterton Imp”, as I like to call it under the eaves in the north west corner. Well worth a visit if you can arrange access.

Not easy to spot (no tower!) on the right hand side as you leave the village heading away from Stamford. No facilities in the village. Pub at the next village - Great Casterton.

Ryhall. 3 Miles, 8 mins from Stamford. OPEN

Visit for some of the finest cornice frieze carvings in England beneath the eaves of the chancel and aisles. See the bum scratcher, the bear playing a shawm, the jester, the two tradesmen carvings and a hundred more besides. This is where my Bum. Fleas and Hitchhikers narrative began and the home of my fictitious stonemason Ralf of Ryhall (the man was real but I invented his name!). Also see the remains of an anchorite cell at the north west of the church. Here a woman will have been immured with views only of the church’s altar and her own prepared grave. Not a well-known church but it deserves to be so. Centre of the village.

Two pubs and an excellent village shop here. What’s more you can get to the village by bus from Stamford! The poet John Clare - the Peasant Poet - once  worked n the fields of Ryhall.

Essendine. 4.5 Miles, 12 mins from Stamford. OPEN

A tiny two-celled church of Norman origin, once serving a long-lost Norman motte and bailey castle. Come here for its Norman south door with decorated tympanum and door jambs that possible show St Tibba, the seventh century saint who lived in Ryhall.

On the left side of the A6121 as you leave the village heading for Bourne. Easily visible from the road. No facilities in the village. Bus route from Stamford-Bourne.

Thurlby. 9.5 Miles. 18 mins from Stamford. RING CHURCHWARDEN FOR ACCESS

One of many churches around Stamford that deserves to be better-known. Standing to the east of a Roman canal - the Car Dyke that ran all the way to Lincoln - it has an Anglo-Saxon tower base and more entertaining sub-parapet cornice frieze carvings.

Just off the A15 Bourne-Peterborough Road. Turn left at the crossroads in the centre of the village if you heading south. Good pub a few yards further along this road. Good village shop.

Barnack. 3.5 Miles. 7 mins from Stamford. OPEN

Along with Tickencote this is recognised as a church of “National Importance”.  It has one of the best-known Anglo-Saxon towers in England with many original decorations. The north aisle is late Norman. A church just crammed with interest. Unmissable. The village had a mediaeval quarry that supplied “Barnack Stone” to three cathedrals and innumerable parish churches. Ask where you can find the “Hills and Hollows” where the locals now exercise their dogs!

In the the village centre. Good pub.

Wittering. 4 Miles. 6 mins from Stamford. Key Usually Available at Village Shop. Check before travelling.

Perhaps the noblest Anglo-Saxon chancel arch in England. Monolithic in size. Norman north aisle. Anglo-Saxon long and short work at quoins.

Located in the large village just off the A1 that adjoins the famous RAF Wittering. All facilities.

Tixover. 6 Miles. 10 mins from Stamford. Locked. Key always available in Village. Check current arrangements before travelling.

Arguably the most charming of the churches on this page. A lovely isolated Norman church that has changed little. Interesting Swiss stained glass, a good monument. A church to fall in love with.

No facilities in this tiny hamlet. To access the church you need to drive past the large farm buildings over well-kept tracks.

Wakerley. 8 Miles. 14 mins from Stamford. OPEN

Perhaps a little further out than some of the churches here but it would be a crime to miss it after Tixover. Its big draw is two superb chancel arch capitals, one showing Crusaders in the Holy Land. Some fragments of a Norman corbel table. Very unusual thirteenth century font.

Maintained by the Churches Conservation Trust. No facilities in the village. The village is located off the A47 from Stamford to Corby.

Ketton. 5 Miles. 9 mins from Stamford. OPEN

The Early English central tower is superb. The west doorway is an exemplar of the Transitional style. There are  Nrman elements inside. Good poppy heads. A church packed with interest.

Located to the west of this straggly village. Two pubs at the time of writing. Thriving village shop.

The “Outliers”

If you have a little more time, there are many fine churches within striking distance of Stamford. Here are three:

Exton. 10 Miles. 16 mins from Stamford. OPEN

A rather famous church. It is very large and fine. It is mainly famous for its superb collection of monuments, including one (in stone) by Grinling Gibbons who is much better known for wood carving. Do NOT miss (as everyone else does!) the very entertaining and well-carved frieze beneath the eaves of the chancel. If you have binoculars you will be able to spot a mooner and a flea carving high up on the very tall west tower. Otherwise, save yourself from eye strain!

Not easy to find up a narrow side road. Look for that skyscraping tower! Pub in the village.

Wansford. 8 Miles. 12 mins from Stamford. OPEN

A simple church in a lovely village. if you are a fan of Norman fonts this church has a fine one. Little else of interest. Wansford is very close to the A1. You can’t really miss its church. Located on a crossing over the River Nene, this is a very pretty village with pubs, restaurants and a village shop.

Castor. 10 Miles. 16 mins from Stamford. OPEN

A Very Important Church and really not very far from Stamford at all. This church has some Anglo-Saxon fabric but its crowning glory (pun intended) is arguably the finest Norman tower on any English parish church. It is well worth visiting Barnack as well so that you can see what a difference a century made in terms of style and quality of masonry. Inside, this church has it all. That central tower is carried on a massive Norman crossing, its capitals adorned with many decorated and historiated carvings, including one thought to represent the Anglo-Saxon St Kyneburgha who founded the abbey here with her sister, Cyneswith. Mediaeval wall paintings. There is an Anglo-Saxon tympanum, the original Norman foundation stone. This church has it all and if you can visit you certainly should.

In the village and easy to find. Pub-restaurant within walking distance.