practice, but why Norman lords were doing this a century after the Conquest if something of a mystery. Was it cultural imperialism? Was it because English monks were perceived to be somehow inferior? Or was there just a surplus in French houses? Either way, it re-emphasises that as far as the Norman families - and their kings - were concerned their lands in England and France were inseparable, an attitude that persisted and caused cross-channel conflict for half a millennium. Nothing remains of the monastic buildings.
The original church may have had a central tower and crossing with transepts. It almost certainly had an apse as well. It served as the parish church as well as the priory church and this would have been the main reason for its surviving the Reformation. However, as was so often the case, relegation to parish-only status led to a much diminished building. The clerestory was removed. The glazed upper storey we see today was once the triforium: the intermediate stage between arcade and clerestory. It was The apse - that symbol of monastic mystery and exclusivity - was demolished. If there was a crossing and transepts they too were removed. The north aisle went the same way. In other words, all that was really left was the nave and that in reduced form.
The most important survival was the extraordinary Norman west front with a west door that Simon Jenkins rightly describes as “an astonishing composition, dated c1150 and reminiscent of the great chancel arch at Tickencote (Rutland)”. We are going to be talking a great deal about this west front but at this point I will simply say that it is one of the truly great survivals of the English Romanesque,
Then in 1866 G.E.Street arrived. Street (1824-81) was responsible for building and “restoring” dozens of churches. One might argue that some of his restorations were tantamount to vandalism. It is easy to forget, however, that many churches at this time were in a structurally parlous state and needed drastic surgery. Moreover, we must acknowledge that he and his fellow architects were children of their time, influenced by such cultural fanatics as Morris and Ruskin, by the Oxford Movement and by the “Gothic Revival” - all of these things intimately entangled. We must acknowledge also that parishes and patrons would have also been thus influenced. It is too easy to blame the architects alone. We must also remember that the primary function of churches then was as places of worship, not as architectural museum pieces
Street liked apses, so the large one we see today is his. Yes, it is outsize and yes it is arguably a bit silly from a functional point of view, but a print 1812 shows the church as an aesthetically unappealing rectangle of masonry. One might argue that the apse was an ingenious way of softening the whole look of the church. The north aisle was replaced in 1820 by Joseph Bennett. To me it is undersized and unappealing but it is unequivocally an improvement on the slab sided north wall that had been left by the Reformation. Pevsner termed it “an odd conceit”!
And so to that west wall. Jenkins says of Street: “He inserted shafts into the central doorway, added new windows and arcading wherever fancy took him and retooled individual carvings” Elsewhere he wrote “Even Street could not detract from Tutbury’s glory”. I have to say that nineteenth century prints reveal the disaster area that probably confronted Street. In fact, although the west front makes an enormous visual impact the Norman elements comprise no more than that wonderful west doorway and a west window flanked by two short sections of blind arcading. I am struggling to see any “inserted arcades” or “new windows”(as opposed to restored ones. The main Street-ism here is heavy re-carving of the five columns either side of the west door and around the west window. It is arguably heavy-handed but much (although not all) of it is in the Norman tradition and in my view detracts little from the ancient beauty. I must say that, much as I love Tickencote Church, its restoration was much less successful.
I think I’ve talked more than enough. Let’s take a look at the church!
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